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Arbury Archive: The Downham Family Of Manor Farm

Rebecca Downham with her step-father Brian in Carlton Way.

Rebecca Downham, step-daughter of Brian Downham, who was born at the Manor Farm in 1943 and lived there until its demolition, got in touch with us just before Christmas last year.

It was a marvellous surprise for Andy, who had interviewed Brian several times in the very early days of the Arbury Archive. 

'I was very nervous about starting the Archive,' he says. 'It was a big undertaking, but Sallie Purkis was very encouraging. She had been a great power behind the 'Arbury 1980' project and the 1981 book, Arbury is where we live!, knew a tremendous amount about the district as a teacher, historian and author, and she was very keen for an Arbury Archive to be established. She was very kind.

Brian at work - sheep shearing time.

A relative of Brian had contributed to the Arbury 1980 project and the 1981 Arbury is where we live! book and Andy was eager to hear Brian's memories.

Andy recalls: 'When I first went to interview Brian, I was very uncertain as I was only eighteen and the Archive was just beginning. 'Hello, Mr Downham!' I said, as he opened the front door. Mr Downham smiled at me: "Come in! Call me Brian!"

'Within a few minutes we were talking like old friends. I remember him very fondly, a very kind man, who knew rural Arbury very well and was happy to share his memories.'

Brian lent Andy many photographs of rural Arbury, which Andy took to the Cambridgeshire Collection for copying. Rebecca has been through Brian's photo albums and provided other photos we have never seen before!

The entrance to the Manor Farm Drive from Arbury Road, with No's 1 and 2 Manor Farm Cottages on the left.

This article features transcript extracts from two of the interviews Andy had with Brian, in the autumn of 1983 and the summer of 1984.

William Downham married Lillian Barker in September 1936, and they made their home at No 2 Manor Farm Cottages, Arbury Road. Downham's Lane is named after William. 

Brian Arthur Downham was born at Manor Farm, Arbury Road, Cambridge on 19 July, 1943.

He recalled:

'Ours was the second house in the Manor drive, semi-detached, with Ernie Sale next door. We had three bedrooms, and there were two rooms downstairs, the living room and the kitchen where we used to have our meals. We had a little garden at the front, and a big one at the back, with the old washhouse and the coal shed out there. Of course, we never had central heating. Dad built other sheds for farm tools.

'We'd step outside the front door and turn to look right at the white, wooden gate, always open, and over opposite us to Ernie Sale's orchard, and that was that. It was all really familiar. I can still see it now... This is where I was born and where I grew up. The old Manor drive... and on the opposite side of Arbury Road were fields and trees and sheds and farm buildings, right out to Hall Farm and Gilbert Road, and round that way.

'The Drive was beautiful in summer, there were a few larch trees on the left, followed by several horse chestnut trees and a little copse opposite the big farmhouse, with laburnum trees, evergreen oaks and a sweet chestnut tree. There were lilac bushes there as well.

   
This view is now Campkin Road, from the Arbury Road end. The trees of the Manor Farm Drive were to be preserved, and would have edged the eastern side of Campkin Road's pavement but, sadly, workmen accidentally cut through the tap roots and the trees were removed in the early 1960s. The side of the house visible on the right was No 3, Manor Farm Cottages, built in 1924, which still stands today. The field became Campkin Road and the Arbury Town Park and Arbury Community Centre.

'If you stepped outside the Manor Farm gate and looked down Arbury Road towards Histon, you saw Ernie Sale's nurseries on the right, Manor Nurseries it was called, after the farm, and beyond that you could see down towards Arbury Camp Farm at the end. That was Chivers chicken farm.

'Of course, Arbury Road ran from Milton Road to Histon Road until a few years back.

'If you turned and looked down Arbury Road towards Chesterton, you saw houses further on in Arbury Road, and Leys Avenue and all that were already up.

'Dad farmed in quite a big way. He had the big Arbury and Arbury Field where the new King's Hedges Road is. That's a funny name for it because that wasn't King's Hedges. That was the last big Arbury Meadow at Manor Farm, then the watercourse ran across, and west of that was Arbury Camp Farm. The watercourse at that place was a boundary between the two farms. It's been piped now.

'King's Hedges School isn't in King's Hedges, but the Council seems to love that name for some reason - I don't know why - me and Dad used to laugh about it. "They've got a bee in their bonnet about that name," that's what Dad said.

'People used to love walking right through Arbury - along the Manor Farm drive from Arbury Road, and sometimes across the rail tracks, and up King's Hedges. There were lots of trees round one side there, and more at Impington Park just across the Roman road, and we kids used to love playing there.'

Andy had brought some old maps of Arbury with him, and Brian was interested to place various locations his father had farmed.

Our trusty old Arbury map, featuring the Arbury Orchard, Arbury Camp Farm, Manor Farm, Cawcutt's Farm, Impington Park, King's Hedges and the Rectory/Trinity Farm. Some modern day location sites have been inserted for ease of orientation - Arbury Court, Arbury Town Park, Arbury Community Centre, Arbury/Orchard Park, and the Cambridgeshire Guided Busway.

'Yes, Dad farmed the Arbury fields - they came right out towards Campkin Road - and he farmed the field up at the North Arbury Chapel and land at Trinity Farm and more than that over the years. He employed men as labourers and cow hands and all that. He had a real head for it all, My grandad lived at Trinity Farm. Farming was in the family.

'Of course, nobody owned land around the district. It was either Council or College land, all rented.

'Dad cared about the men and the animals. He always made sure the regular men and the casual workers we had at busy times of year were paid on time, and looked after the animals. I was brought up in the farming way.

1959 - a cow in the river at Stourbridge Common caused problems for the local fire brigade in 1959. Brian recalled it: 'The cow was all right, but the men had a real struggle to get her out!'

'There were still places round about that just had gas lighting. They put electricity in our house. We got a telly and watched Sunday Night at the London Palladium!

'Arbury, of course, is very old, very old indeed - iron age and Roman, but we didn't know a lot about about that. We knew a bit, like the Roman road and Arbury Camp Farm, but not a lot. We weren't really scholars, there's no time when you're farming, but it was all very interesting to read about in the book'. [Arbury is where we live!]

'It amazes me that Arbury's older than Chesterton. Well, it's prehistoric! And the Romans and all that followed, right up through the years to our little house and now North Arbury.

'It's strange to think of all those years and all the different people and different ways of life.'

Brian was a member of the Cambridge Philatelic Society, and collected many different stamps covering a wide range of interests. One particular interest, prompted by the historic Arbury area, led him to collect stamps covering many features of farming life and equipment, from Neolithic times to the modern day.

I'm sure Brian would be fascinated by modern DNA findings from sites like Oakington!

The Downham family's home, No 2, Manor Farm Cottages. The farm had no gas or electricity supply for many years. Gas had arrived in the 1930s, and electricity around the early-to-mid 1950s.

'We knew change was on the way for a long time. People needed houses, and the council had started on St Kilda Avenue before the war, before I was born.

'You could see how the houses had crept closer and closer to the Arbury meadows over the years, up Arbury Road and Leys Road and that, and in the early fifties things changed really fast. 

'The fields opposite were suddenly full of noise and diggers and men as South Arbury went up. Alex Wood Road went in and Essex Close and round there, and Carlton Way and all round about it - and Arbury School opened. That was 1956. It seemed funny having a school named after Arbury. No Kingsway Flats. They built a lot of South Arbury then did infilling, bits they'd left empty for builders' huts and to store equipment, they built on them.

'Cambridge Daily News', 1954 - the fields south of Arbury Road were becoming South Arbury.

'It all felt very sudden to me, and I couldn't believe how fast it all was. Of course, we knew it was going to happen through the council and the paper, but I couldn't really take it in till they actually got started. I couldn't imagine the view changing until it did. 

'And they started talking about building in the north Arbury fields, that was Manor Farm, our bit, quite quickly. It was years before they got started, but it was in the wind for a long time.

'Colonel Bennett at the big old farmhouse retired and moved, to Histon, if I remember rightly. And nobody lived in that house again.

'We'd had problems with children playing on the farm and doing damage from Chesterton, Ramsden Square and all that, and even a few out from Histon and Impington for years. With South Arbury getting going, new people moving in, this got a lot worse. We took to closing the farm gate at night, but that didn't stop it of course!

A peaceful time at Manor Farm.

'The children made a terrible racket running around in the Manor Farmhouse in the evenings, and it wasn't good. It sounded like the house was haunted at times because it was empty and the shouting and yelling echoed. I sympathised a bit. A big old house like that - it was very tempting to children!

'Some of the other smallholders were very upset by damage that was done. It could be bad I must say, things were smashed, broken into and even set fire to at times, and we had a few problems ourselves. But I liked the kids I spoke to. They weren't bad kids, just bored and full of energy and looking for fun and a bit of adventure! The trouble was, they had no idea of farming and what was important in farming. Some of the children offered to help us and learned a bit about farming life.

'They were used to things just being in shops on the shelves, not how they got there! I remember telling a little girl she musn't walk between two cows standing close together because they might move together and crush her. It felt like a big responsibility having all these children about. We worried.

'They put up the first bit of Arbury Court, and Dad said: 'We're not moving to the town - the town's moving to us!'

'So, they pulled the house down and most of the rest of the farm. Manor Farmhouse went first. One of the cottages is still up. A lady called Mrs Cardinal lived there when I was little. Her husband had died young, and she ran a dairy there. Her brother-in-law did the milk round. Mrs Cardinal's brother was Ernie Sale, from next door to us. She had two daughters, Vera and Audrey, and I'm still in touch with them.

'It always seem funny now, when I look at the junction of the Arbury and Campkin Roads and see lorries and cars and all sorts like that passing over the site of our house, where we'd have our breakfast, and chat and laugh and watch the telly. Good times and bad times... It seems even funnier when I look up to where our bedrooms were and there's just thin air! I used to relax and eat where vehicles now pass over, and sleep in what's now thin air. That gives me a funny feeling!

Brian photographed the demolition of No's 1 and 2 Manor Farm Cottages. This is a colourised version of one of his snaps. Note Alex Wood Road and Arbury Court in the background (bottom left).

Towards the end of the second interview, Brian gave his thoughts on the Arbury of 1984: 'I think it's done really well. People have really put their backs into making it good. They've got the Arbury Town Park, the Community Centre, the Adventure Playground, the Voice of Arbury and the Carnival... I'm really enjoying seeing the way the area's pulling together. Of course, all the farming people in Arbury used to help each other, and it's lovely to see the community spirit goes on.'

The big transition: from Arbury Road and the Manor Farm drive to the junction of Arbury Road and Campkin Road. The large field is now the site of Arbury Town Park, the Arbury Community Centre, Nicholson Way, etc.

           
Brian and Chawee, Rebecca's mother, were married in 2006.

Happy days for Brian and Rebecca. Rebecca wrote of her step-father: 'He was truly the kindest and gentlest person I ever knew.'

Thanks once again to Rebecca for the photographs, and for bringing back fond memories to Andy of Brian and the early days of the Arbury Archive.

Coming Soon: We'll be time warping back to the Grove School to find out all about the Grovebury Ladies. Please stay tuned!

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